Dear friends,

There are recipes that grab your attention not because they’re familiar, but because something about them sits right. This cake, born from the brilliant Orange, Olive Oil, Pine Nut, and Rosemary creation by Dario Cecchini, was exactly that for me. I don’t even remember exactly how I stumbled on it (maybe a photo on Instagram?), but the flavors felt like a chord I wanted to explore. I found a variation of Dario’s original recipe on Food 52 and so here I am, offering you my own adaptation.

And yet, as I type these words, I’m carrying a heaviness that the kitchen can’t quite lift.

What just happened in Minneapolis the last couple of weeks has shaken all of us who feel the world’s wounds deeply. I try to keep this newsletter and social media work-focused not because I fear people unfollowing me (though freelancing with unstable work always feels like a tightrope), but because opening myself up online often invites hatred and vitriol from strangers eager to tell me to “stick to baking.”

There is a side of me that is terribly sensitive and I feel the pain of others as if it were my own. It took me a few days to find the right words to articulate how I feel. The rejection of basic humanity, the willful blindness to other people’s struggle - it’s insufferable. Raised Catholic, rooted in teachings of compassion and social justice from Jesuits, Carmelites, and Passionists, I still believe in the dignity of every person. To watch the United States unravel this way breaks my heart. I don’t want to lose respect for the other. I don’t know if this is a purge or a permanent state of fear, but it feels like we are being nudged toward chaos to justify even more violence. I long for leaders who can think in terms of peace, empathy, and collective problem-solving, not ego and applause.

My heart is with my friends in Minnesota and with all who are hurting right now.

With love,

Aran

Lemon Olive Oil Cake with Pine Nuts and Rosemary

This cake is inspired by the Orange, Olive Oil, Pine Nut and Rosemary Cake by Dario Cecchini. I don’t even remember how I came across the recipe, but I think I saw a glimpse of it on Instagram and it sounded and looked incredible. Then, I saw Food 52 had shared a version of it. So here I am with my own adaptation. A few notes about this recipe:

-       I only tested this using a tube pan, but I imagine you can make it in an 8-inch cake pan without any issues.

-       Omit the raisins if you don’t like them, but they really do add beautiful texture and sweetness. If you omit them, use half of the amaretto.

-       If you don’t want to use alcohol, I imagine orange juice will do. Again, I haven’t tested this.

-       Dario’s cake is made with Navel oranges but I wanted to use lemon. Meyer lemons have a thinner rind so you don’t get as much bitterness from the pith. Collect any juices from cutting the lemon.

-       As always, I used superfine brown rice and almond flours. It makes a huge difference in the crumb so it doesn’t fall apart.

-       For the topping, you can use sliced almonds if you don’t have pine nuts.

-       For the sugar topping, don’t add too much water, just moistening your fingertips might be enough. It keeps the sugar coarse and doesn’t burn while baking. It’s a trick I learned from my grandfather.

Makes a 9-inch cake

75 g golden raisins

60 g amaretto or dark rum

1 large (180g) Meyer lemon, cut into 1/4-inch pieces

50 g candied orange, cut into 1/4-inch pieces

2 large eggs

150 g granulated sugar, plus 1 extra tablespoon for topping

100 g extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing

150 g superfine brown rice flour, plus more for greasing

100 g almond flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

50 g raw pine nuts

1 tablespoon rosemary leaves

·      Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Grease the inside of a 9-inch tube pan or angel food cake pan with a little bit of olive oil and sprinkle some brown rice flour inside. Turn the pan to coat the bottom and sides with the flour and shake off excess.

·      Combine the raisins and amaretto in a small saucepan. Heat for a minute until the raisins soften. Transfer to a bowl and add the chopped lemon and candied orange. Let everything soak together for 15 minutes.

·      Combine the eggs and sugar in a bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Beat the eggs until light and airy for 3 minutes over medium-high speed. Reduce speed to medium and slowly add the olive oil in a steady stream. Once all the olive oil has been incorporated, whip on high again for another 30 seconds.

·      Stir the brown rice flour, almond flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda in a medium bowl. Add into the whipped eggs and beat on medium for about 30 seconds until incorporated. Turn speed to high and beat for another 30 seconds. Fold in the soaked citrus and raisins until thoroughly incorporated.

·      Spread the batter in the prepared pan. Top with pine nuts. In a small bowl, stir together the sugar and rosemary. Moisten your finger tips or add a drop of water and mix until you have a coarse but sandy mixture. Sprinkle over the top of the cake.

·      Bake the cake for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 325°F (160°C) and bake for another 25 to 30 minutes until golden, the top has cracked slightly and a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Let the cake cool in the pan for 15 minutes, then carefully lift out of the pan. Let it cool for another 15 minutes so it doesn’t fall apart. Store tightly wrapped in fridge for up to 3 days.