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ARAN GOYOAGA

Vanilla & Ginger Quince Butter & a Quince Vinaigrette

 

Dear friends,

Quince season is one of the most anticipated times of the year. Let them ripen on your kitchen counter and your home will fill with the most intoxicating fragrance. I always say quinces are among the most aromatic fruits out there. But what do they smell like, you might wonder? Notes of pineapple, apple, chamomile, rose, and honey all come to mind.

I often keep a large bowl of quinces on my counter just to admire their golden glow and enjoy their scent a little longer. Eventually, I cook them. Am I glad I do! Once cooked, quinces become tender, creamy, as sweet as you wish, and their color transforms into the most beautiful blush.

A couple of weekends ago, I woke up to a kitchen full of quince that a few different friends had dropped off (thank you, Sharyn and Terry!). I had carved out time that weekend to devote myself to this abundance of fruit - making quince butter, quince paste, a couple of tarts using that same quince butter, and even a large batch of quince vinaigrette. Find the recipes for the quince butter and vinaigrette below.

Remember, quinces must be cooked - they’re inedible when raw. If you find them still green, let them ripen until they turn golden and fragrant. You can poach them in a light sugar syrup with spices (I like to peel and halve them, leaving the core intact). Once poached, they’re wonderful spooned over granola and yogurt, paired with ice cream, baked into a frangipane tart, or roasted with a drizzle of syrup and honey. You can also puree poached quinces into a silky quince sauce, much like applesauce. And of course, no quince season is complete without making quince paste or quince cheese, as it’s sometimes called (membrillo in Spanish) - a perfect companion for any cheese board. You can find the recipe for Membrillo in my book Cannelle et Vanille. Don’t miss the Quince-Chamomile Oat Bar recipe in Cannelle et Vanille Bakes Simple and the Quince Jam recipe I published in newsletter last year. Last year, I made quince vinegar loosely following this recipe. I used honey instead of sugar and added a bit of the “mother” from an apple cider vinegar I had made the year before.

Finally, just wanted to remind you about my upcoming virtual baking class on November 9th in collaboration with Book Larder. It is open to everyone who has ordered a copy of my book through them. The class is $10 and all of that will be donated to World Central Kitchen. I will be teaching you how to make the Chocolate Babka Crown from The Art of Gluten-Free Bread. Details HERE.

And if you are in Seattle and want to come say hi, I have several events coming up in November.

November 8th - PAPERCAKE will be selling a special box with 4 breads/pastries from my book plus a slice of their amazing GF cake. Order here.

November 15 - WOBBLE UP. Book signing at 11am. Magnuson Park.

November 22 - PHINNEY HOLIDAY BOOKFEST. Book signing.

Love to all,

Aran

 

Vanilla and Ginger Quince Butter

This vanilla and ginger quince butter recipe is an easy introduction to quince. It is very lightly sweetened and slightly acidic. You can increase the amount of sugar if you would like, which will result in something closer to a jam. Read these tips before making the recipe:

- Quince still seems to be an unknown fruit in most of the US. It grows really well in climates where apples thrive so chilly winters help. You can likely find it at the farmers although I can also find it at a couple of supermarkets in Seattle. I have friends who have friends with a tree and that is how I get a large amount every year.

- Quinces have fuzz on their exterior as peaches do. Wash them before peeling. Remove any brown or dark spots while you are cutting them.

- Quinces are hard to cut so be careful not to hurt yourself. Make sure to use a sharp knife.

- There are different ways of cooking quinces. In the past, I have cooked them already peeled and quartered in a sweetened syrup and then pureed them. This time, I cook them quartered (without peeling) in lemon water and then end up sweetened them after cooked. You will arrive at similar products. However, when you cook them with the skin and cores intact, your poaching liquid will collect a lot of the natural-occurring pectin.

- It’s very important to keep the quince submerged in the poaching water at all times that’s why we cover the surface with a piece of parchment. It’s also very important to cook the quince on a low heat. Aggressive boiling can disintegrate the fruit. Additionally, the longer quince is cooked the more intense the pink/blush color becomes.

- Save your poaching liquid for making quince jelly, add it to other jams, make simple syrup, or make tea with it.

Makes four 8-ounce (225 g) jars

1.5 kg quince, washed and cut into quarters

100 g lemon juice, divided

225 to 275 g granulated sugar

1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds removed

1 teaspoon ground ginger

·      Place the quince in a large stock pot and cover with cold water. Add half of the lemon juice. Cut a piece of parchment paper and place over the quince, touching the water. The parchment will keep the quince submerged. Place the pot on the stove over high heat. Once the water has a very light simmer, reduce heat to low and continue cooking until the quince is tender and it has turned light pink/blush color. Adjust your heat to maintain that light simmer. This can take anywhere between 1 1/2 to 3 hours, depending on how ripe your quince is.

·      Remove quince from liquid (see headnote about reserving poaching liquid). Peel and cut off the touch core and seeds. Add all the poached quince into a food processor and puree until creamy.

·      Return quince puree to pot and add remaining lemon juice, sugar, vanilla seeds, and ginger. Stir everything together. Heat over high heat until it begins to lightly bubble. Reduce heat to medium high and continue cooking for 10 minutes until the sugar has dissolved and it has lightly thickened into a creamy mixture.

·      Pour into 4 sterilized mason jars and seal with lids. Let them cool completely at room temperature. Store in the refrigerator for up to 2 months.

Quince Vinaigrette

1/4 cup olive oil

2 tablespoons quince vinegar or apple cider vinegar

1 tablespoon Vanilla and Ginger Quince Butter

1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot (optional)

1 teaspoon whole grain mustard (I use one that has a bit of piment d’Espelette in it)

1/2 teaspoon flaky salt

  • Combine all ingredients together in a mason jar and shake vigorously until creamy. Store in refrigerator for up to 1 week.

 
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Aran Goyoaga Styling & Photography, Inc., 2315 Western Ave, suite 207, Seattle, WA 98121, USA

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