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Sweet Potato Gnocchi with Caper and Preserved Lemon Sauce These are some delicate and very creamy gnocchi that have just a tad of bite to them. The sweetness of the gnocchi demanded something briny and spicy so I settled on a simple sauce made with capers, preserved lemons, and a dash of chili. Cassava is the only flour in the recipe creating the right balance of binding and body. If you have never used cassava flour, it’s the flour obtained from the whole cassava root, unlike tapioca flour, which is the starch extracted from the root. It’s readily available in supermarkets across the US these days. Cassava flour is high in carbohydrates and works amazingly well for flatbreads, especially flour tortillas. I tend to use it sparingly and most often, on its own. A few notes about the recipe: - All sweet potatoes have different moisture levels. I prefer to bake mine as to not introduce any additional moisture but, by all means, you can boil the sweet potatoes. You will likely have to add a bit more flour to the dough. - If you cannot find cassava flour, use 75% of potato starch and 25% of tapioca starch. I haven’t tested it this way but I think it will work. In my first experiment, I used more tapioca and was way too gummy for my liking. I have not tested it with an all-purpose gluten-free flour but it will probably work. - I like to have a small pot of boiling water by my side when I make gnocchi so I can quickly cook small pieces of dough and see what final texture is. This allows me to add more flour or more water to the dough, if needed, before I shape into gnocchi. - I used a potato ricer to mash the sweet potato, which yields a very airy dough. You can use a fork to mash it but try to keep it very light as well. I use a gnocchi board to add the surface ridges that hold the sauce but pressing the dough against a fork will do just fine. - I made the recipe twice and both times the amount of cassava flour listed below was spot on but since all sweet potatoes will contain different amounts of moisture, I recommend that you start with about 75% of the flour listed in recipe and add more as needed. Or of course, if your dough feels dry, then add a touch of water. The dough should hold together but be moist and billowy. - You can keep the uncooked gnocchi in the fridge tightly wrapped for a day or two. If you are not going to eat them all, I recommend freezing them. Lay them flat on a baking sheet and pop in freezer until frozen solid. Once frozen, transfer into a releasable freezer bag. Cook frozen gnocchi without thawing out first. It will take a bit longer but they are done when they float to the surface. - If you don’t have preserved lemons for the sauce, you can add more capers or olives, then add a touch of freshly grated lemon zest. There is a recipe for preserved lemons in my book Cannelle et Vanille but preserving lemons is a very simple (although long) process for which you can find a myriad of recipes online. - You can toss the gnocchi with any other sauce you might enjoy. Because they are sweet, I like to pair them with something salty and bright but it’s up to your own personal preference. Sage and brown butter, puttanesca, arrabbiata, herb pesto, try the recipe below but add some crushed canned tomatoes…. So many possibilities. Serves 6 For the sweet potato gnocchi 2 large (700 g) sweet potatoes 3/4 cup (105 g) cassava flour, plus more for dusting 1 teaspoon kosher salt For the caper and preserved lemon sauce 6 tablespoons (80 g) extra-virgin olive oil 3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 3 tablespoons coarsely chopped capers 3 tablespoons coarsely chopped preserved lemon 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes 1. Preheat oven to 400F. Place the sweet potatoes on a baking sheet and roast them for 45 to 55 minutes until very soft. To test for doneness, insert a knife in center. It should slide right in. Let the sweet potatoes cool completely. 2. Once sweet potatoes are completely cooled, peel them, and pass them through a potato ricer or mash them with a fork (see headnote about this). Measure 2 cups (450 g) of sweet potato flesh into a large bowl. Reserve the rest for another use. 3. Add the cassava flour and salt into sweet potatoes and using your hands, knead until it comes together. The dough should feel creamy, billowy and airy, moist yet will hold together nicely. If the dough feels too moist, add more flour one tablespoon at a time. If the dough feels dry, add a touch of water. (See headnote about testing the dough) 4. Shape the dough into a ball. Cut into 4 pieces. Lightly dust your work surface and a baking sheet with a bit of flour. Roll each piece of dough into a log that is approximately 3/4” thick, then cut the log into 1/2” pieces. Roll each piece of dough into a ball in the palms of your hands, then using a gnocchi board or a fork, press the dough lightly to create ridges on exterior surface of dough. You will end up with little oval gnocchi that are about 1 inch long. Transfer them onto floured baking sheet as you go. Repeat with remaining dough. Set aside. (See headnote about storing uncooked gnocchi). 5. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the gnocchi in batches not to overcrowd the pot and cook until they float to the surface, about 45 seconds to a minute. Drain the gnocchi out of the water and reserve about 1/4 to 1/2 cup of cooking liquid for the sauce. 6. Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil and garlic. Cook for 1 minute until it begins to caramelize, then add remaining ingredients to the pan along with 1/4 cup of gnocchi-cooking water (add more if needed). Be careful as it might splatter. Cook the sauce for 1 minute until it thickens slightly, then add the cooked gnocchi into the pan. Toss the gnocchi in the sauce until well coated and serve immediately.
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